In a city known for its skyscrapers and high-speed rhythm, the charm of traditional Shanghai cuisine continues to thrive — comforting, soulful, and deeply rooted in local heritage. Among the many beloved dishes, few are as iconic as Shanghai Smoked Fish (熏鱼, Xūn Yú). Despite its name, the dish isn’t actually smoked — instead, it’s marinated, deep-fried, and then soaked in a sweet-savory soy-based sauce that gives it its signature richness and fragrance.
To taste Shanghai smoked fish is to savor a story — one of ingenuity, family kitchens, and the enduring appeal of flavor that bridges generations.
📜 A Dish Born from History
Shanghai smoked fish traces its origins back to the early 20th century, though some say it may have been adapted from older Jiangnan (江南) cooking traditions that stretch even further. Traditionally served cold or at room temperature, it was a popular dish among Shanghai families, especially during festivals or as an appetizer at large banquets. Its unique preparation method — crisp exterior, tender interior, and flavor-packed marinade — made it a standout even on a crowded table.
Unlike Western-style smoked fish, there is no smoking involved. The “smoked” aspect refers to the rich, complex aroma that emerges from the blend of ingredients: dark soy sauce, Shaoxing wine, ginger, sugar, scallions, and star anise. The fish — typically grass carp or black carp — is flash-fried to golden perfection and then soaked in the sauce, resulting in an addictive contrast of textures and layers of umami.
🍽️ Cultural and Culinary Identity
Smoked fish is more than just a delicious dish; it embodies the Shanghai palate — refined, slightly sweet, and delicately balanced. While northern Chinese cuisines often emphasize bold spices and the south prefers subtlety, Shanghai’s flavors sit somewhere in between: comforting yet elevated, homely yet elegant.
It’s a dish that speaks to:
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Local ingredients: freshwater fish from the Yangtze River delta.
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Time-honored techniques: marinating, frying, braising.
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Aesthetic presentation: glistening fillets served on fine porcelain or lacquered plates.
As Shanghai evolved from a fishing village into a global metropolis, dishes like xun yu remained close to locals’ hearts. It’s still commonly found in both humble eateries and high-end restaurants, bridging old and new — just like the city itself.
📍 Where to Try Shanghai Smoked Fish
You’ll find this dish served in a variety of settings across Shanghai, each offering a slightly different interpretation — some with more sweetness, some with more spice.
Recommended spots to explore include:
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Old Jesse (老吉士)
A hidden gem in the French Concession, known for traditional Shanghainese dishes, where the smoked fish is crispy, flavorful, and beautifully plated. -
Cheng Long Hang Crab Palace (成隆行蟹王府)
A more luxurious restaurant offering seasonal hairy crab and other regional specialties, where the smoked fish is a perfect starter. -
Lao Shanghai Benbang Cai (老上海本帮菜)
A popular local chain for home-style cooking, with an emphasis on authenticity and nostalgia. -
Street-side food stalls and wet markets
For a more casual and local experience, many markets sell pre-made smoked fish — perfect for takeaway or picnic-style meals.
💬 What Visitors Say
🗨️ “I’ve never had fish like this before — sweet, savory, crisp, and so tender inside. It’s a flavor bomb that you can’t stop eating.”
🗨️ “The texture blew my mind. The outside is caramelized and slightly chewy, but the inside is still juicy. I ended up ordering two plates.”
🗨️ “You can really taste the ginger and soy. It’s familiar and exotic at the same time. One of the most memorable dishes of my trip.”
🗨️ “After learning it wasn’t actually smoked, I was skeptical. But the flavor was so deep and rich — it’s now one of my favorite dishes in China.”
🎁 Take It Home — Culinary Souvenir Tips
While Shanghai smoked fish is best enjoyed fresh, there are ways to bring its flavor home:
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Vacuum-packed versions can be found in specialty food stores and airports. These make for excellent gifts and travel well.
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Recipe cards or cooking classes: Some teahouses and boutique cooking studios offer hands-on sessions where visitors can learn how to prepare smoked fish themselves.
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Locally produced sauces: Take home bottles of aged soy sauce or Shaoxing wine — key ingredients used in many Shanghainese dishes, including smoked fish.
🪷 Beyond the Plate: A Cultural Bridge
What makes Shanghai smoked fish so special isn’t just its taste — it’s the story it tells. It represents the city’s historical layers, from its fishing roots to its cosmopolitan present. It’s a dish born of practicality and refined through decades of experimentation and family tradition.
Sharing a plate of smoked fish over a meal becomes a way to connect with the heart of Shanghai, one bite at a time. It speaks of a city that honors tradition without being bound by it — a place where culinary creativity thrives in harmony with the past.
☯️ A Taste That Lingers
Whether you’re enjoying it as an appetizer in a quiet teahouse or picking it up from a bustling local market, Shanghai smoked fish is an unforgettable culinary experience. It captures everything that makes this city so captivating — complexity, contrast, elegance, and soul.
And like Shanghai itself, it leaves you with a sense of lingering curiosity… and the desire to come back for just one more bite.
