A City Built on Slopes
Chongqing is often described as China’s “mountain city,” and nowhere is this more evident than on the Shancheng Trail. Winding its way through the heart of the old town, this unique walking route offers an immersive experience of Chongqing’s vertical charm, weaving between steep staircases, traditional stilt houses, military history, and unexpected café culture hidden within wartime bunkers.
Shancheng, literally meaning “mountain city,” is not just a poetic label—it defines the physical and cultural architecture of Chongqing. This trail embodies the city’s resilience and adaptability, shaped by its dramatic topography and complex history. A walk here is not merely exercise; it’s a step-by-step journey through a living museum.
Historical Layers Beneath Every Step
As you ascend the stone steps and descend narrow alleys, it’s easy to lose sense of time. The Shancheng Trail is one of the best-preserved urban heritage walks in Chongqing, a path originally used by locals to commute across the city long before modern transportation reshaped its layout.
What makes the experience truly compelling is how much history remains embedded in the structures along the trail. There are remnants of Ming and Qing dynasty architecture, juxtaposed with Soviet-influenced buildings from the mid-20th century. The trail also threads past former air raid shelters—now repurposed into community spaces and quirky cafés, offering a creative reinterpretation of the past.
Stilt Houses and Urban Canyon Views
One of the highlights of the trail is the opportunity to walk beneath and beside “diaojiaolou,” the traditional wooden stilt houses that cling to the steep hillside. These iconic structures have survived waves of urban transformation and remain a visual emblem of Chongqing’s adaptation to its hilly terrain.
Along the way, the urban canyons formed by tightly packed buildings and staircases offer fascinating perspectives. You might find yourself sandwiched between layers of balconies, rooftop gardens, and hanging laundry—every inch of vertical space put to use, telling silent stories of the lives lived there. Despite the city’s rapid modernization, these old neighborhoods remain vibrant, humming with the energy of daily life.
Unexpected Encounters: Cafés in Bunkers and Murals on Walls
Perhaps the most surprising element of the Shancheng Trail is its creative use of former war infrastructure. During World War II, Chongqing served as the provisional capital of China and endured heavy aerial bombings. The hillside was riddled with underground bunkers built for protection. Today, some of these have been transformed into atmospheric coffee shops, galleries, and teahouses.
Stopping in one of these bunker cafés is an experience in itself—cool in the summer, quiet in contrast to the street noise above, and rich with vintage décor and local storytelling. Some owners have even preserved parts of the original cement walls and wartime signage, adding an authentic and introspective edge to your coffee break.
Street art and murals also line parts of the trail, with themes ranging from revolutionary history to nostalgic depictions of Chongqing’s working-class life. These artistic touches turn the hike into a walking exhibition, constantly surprising and engaging the eye.
The Charm of Getting Lost and Finding Moments
Part of the Shancheng Trail’s appeal lies in its unpredictability. There’s no single “right” path. Instead, it’s a loosely connected network of stairs, lanes, and corridors that invite spontaneous exploration. Locals still use the trail as part of their daily routine—some carrying baskets of vegetables, others pausing to chat with neighbors or sit on a shaded stoop.
Travelers often describe the experience as surprisingly intimate. The proximity to real life—the smells of home cooking, the sound of radios playing, the sight of children chasing one another up the steps—offers a human scale that is increasingly rare in modern cities. Each corner you turn can lead to a new discovery: a courtyard garden, a small shrine, or a weathered signpost marking an old boundary.
When and How to Visit
The Shancheng Trail can be explored throughout the year, but spring and autumn offer the most pleasant weather. Morning walks provide soft light and quiet ambiance, while late afternoon strolls often reward you with golden sunlight filtering through treetops and old buildings.
The main sections of the trail are accessible from popular areas like Liziba, Eling Park, or Qixinggang. While signage has improved, part of the adventure lies in asking for directions, following your instincts, or simply seeing where the stairs take you. Comfortable shoes are essential, and a bottle of water is highly recommended, especially during summer.
A Trail that Captures the Soul of Chongqing
For those looking to go beyond tourist façades and commercial centers, the Shancheng Trail offers an unfiltered portrait of Chongqing. It’s a place where the city’s history is still being lived rather than curated—where the past and present co-exist in steep staircases, humble homes, and quiet community moments. Walking this trail is like peeling back the layers of a city that reveals itself slowly, deliberately, and always with a touch of grit and grace.
