Among the myriad flavors that define Beijing’s local food culture, few are as polarizing or as deeply rooted in the city’s identity as the pairing of douzhi’er (fermented mung bean milk) and jiaoquan (crispy deep-fried dough rings). This iconic breakfast duo is not just a meal—it’s a living piece of Beijing history and a sensory experience that captures the city’s everyday life. While it may surprise unfamiliar palates, douzhi’er and jiaoquan represent the kind of culinary encounter that lingers long after the first taste, offering insight into centuries of tradition and the heart of old Beijing.
Historical Roots in Beijing’s Common Life
Douzhi’er has been a staple in Beijing for over 800 years, with its origins tracing back to the Liao and Jin dynasties. It was historically considered an economical and nourishing beverage made from the byproduct of mung bean starch used to produce cellophane noodles (fensi). Rather than waste the remaining liquid, resourceful Beijing residents fermented it into a tangy, slightly sour drink known today as douzhi’er.
Over time, douzhi’er became a defining element of Beijing street breakfasts, particularly in the city’s hutongs—traditional alleyway neighborhoods where early morning life thrived with food vendors, gossip, and steaming bowls of porridge. It gained a reputation not just for its taste, but also for its value: filling, affordable, and nutritious.
Jiaoquan, often served alongside, complements douzhi’er perfectly. These golden-brown, crispy dough rings are made from wheat flour and deep-fried to perfection. Crunchy on the outside and slightly chewy inside, they offer a contrast in texture and flavor, balancing the sourness of douzhi’er with a comforting, savory crunch.
An Acquired Taste with Cultural Weight
For those encountering douzhi’er for the first time, its flavor can be surprising. It has a distinctly fermented scent, often compared to sour pickles or even blue cheese. The taste is tart and earthy, sometimes with a mild aftertaste that lingers. While it may take more than one sip to adjust, those who embrace the experience often describe it as deeply satisfying and uniquely refreshing.
In contrast, jiaoquan are immediately enjoyable—warm, crispy, and slightly salty, ideal for dunking into douzhi’er or enjoyed on their own. Traditionally, locals often pair these with a plate of pickled vegetables or lacun (腊肠), a type of marinated mustard tuber, to round out the meal.
Douzhi’er is more than just food—it’s a statement of belonging. Among lifelong Beijingers, enjoying douzhi’er is a badge of pride, a sign that someone truly understands the flavor of the city. To say “I drink douzhi’er” is to align oneself with generations of Beijing residents who have grown up on its distinctive taste.
The Social Experience of a Beijing Breakfast
Early morning douzhi’er stalls or humble eateries, often tucked in alleys or attached to old residential blocks, offer a glimpse into Beijing’s traditional morning culture. Locals gather here not only for breakfast but also to catch up on news, discuss neighborhood events, or simply enjoy a quiet moment before the hustle of the day begins.
At these places, food is served fast, hot, and unpretentiously. A bowl of douzhi’er might come in a chipped ceramic cup, steam curling from the surface, with jiaoquan served in a paper basket. The sounds of conversation mix with the clatter of spoons and the sizzle from the fryer. It’s a sensory-rich environment that speaks volumes about the daily rhythms of life in the capital.
This environment is part of the appeal for visitors seeking authentic experiences. Eating douzhi’er among local residents provides a rare chance to connect with Beijing’s living traditions and its everyday, working-class culinary roots.
Where to Try Douzhi’er and Jiaoquan in Beijing
Several long-standing eateries in Beijing are famed for their douzhi’er. One of the most well-known is Douzhi’er Su, located near Tianqiao and offering some of the most traditional preparation styles. Another recommended spot is Huguosi Xiaochi, a classic local snack house that serves douzhi’er along with a variety of old Beijing street foods.
In areas like Dashilan, Qianmen, and the hutongs surrounding the Drum and Bell Towers, you can also find small breakfast shops that specialize in douzhi’er. These places often operate only in the morning, so it’s best to arrive early for the freshest serving and a seat among the locals.
Cultural Symbolism and Changing Perceptions
While the taste of douzhi’er may challenge those unfamiliar with it, the dish is often admired for how it symbolizes Beijing’s culinary resilience and frugality. In recent years, younger Beijingers and food enthusiasts have begun to re-embrace douzhi’er, celebrating it as part of the city’s intangible cultural heritage.
Food bloggers, chefs, and even local influencers have created new enthusiasm around this traditional drink, sometimes adding modern twists like pairing douzhi’er with fusion snacks or offering cold versions in summer. Despite these innovations, the soul of the dish remains unchanged: simple, fermented, and proudly local.
Jiaoquan, meanwhile, has made its way into trendy cafés and fusion menus, often reimagined with dipping sauces or paired with craft tea. Still, for those who want the real experience, nothing beats eating it fresh from the fryer, with a bowl of steaming douzhi’er and a seat near a hutong window.
Visitor Impressions and Reactions
First-time tasters often express surprise at the boldness of douzhi’er. Reactions range from amused curiosity to genuine delight. “It wasn’t what I expected,” one visitor commented, “but the more I drank, the more I understood its charm. It really does taste like old Beijing.”
Others describe it as a love-it-or-leave-it kind of experience, with one diner saying, “The smell threw me off at first, but after a few sips with the crispy jiaoquan, it all came together. I ended up finishing the whole bowl.” It’s not uncommon for people to return a second time, just to test if their taste buds have adapted—and many are surprised to find they actually crave it.
The setting in which it’s enjoyed also leaves a lasting impression. Many reflect not just on the food, but on the atmosphere: the chatter of elders, the warmth of the staff, and the feeling of sharing space with a community that has been drinking douzhi’er for generations.
An Invitation to Taste and Understand
Douzhi’er and jiaoquan are not just breakfast items—they are touchstones of Beijing’s identity, windows into a lifestyle that values resourcefulness, simplicity, and flavor honed over time. They tell the story of a city that respects its past while continuing to evolve.
For those who seek more than just meals while traveling, this pairing offers the chance to connect with the soul of Beijing in the most honest way: through taste, texture, and tradition.
So if you find yourself walking through a Beijing morning, with steam rising from pots and the smell of frying dough in the air, step into a small shop, sit down with the locals, and order a bowl of douzhi’er with jiaoquan on the side. It may challenge your expectations—but it will give you a story worth remembering, and a taste of the real Beijing that few other dishes can deliver.
